December 30th, 2005

proplady chris sword

Miroku Staff Tutorial - Part Two

In Part One, we gathered the materials and made the coupling for the staffhead. The next step is to create a setting for the bladed ring. Do this by making the coupling overlap the end of the staff by about an inch, then take a marker and draw a line around the coupling at that point. Then cut two slits about a 1/4" wide in the coupling like so:




...thereby creating a slot to stick the 7" brass ring in. The next step is to embed the brass ring into the slot and glue it in place with hotglue.



It's probably not going to be very secure, so the next step is to wrap a strip of styrene around the top of the coupling--covering the slots--and then glue it in place.



In the next step you have to be very careful. Take a wirecutters and snip the 7" brass ring (doesn't matter where you do so as you're just going to glue it back up again.)



That done, now take the 6 3" brass rings and slip them through so they're hanging from the larger brass ring. You'll have to move the smaller rings out of your way as you're constructing the rest of the staffhead, but you'll find it's much less trouble attaching them now and working around them than it would be to cut each 3" ring open and attach them after the staffhead is finished. (It will look more attractive too, as you won't have a lot of ugly glue-joints on your smaller rings.)



This being done, now you re-glue the 7" brass ring closed.



There. You've finished attaching the rings. And I've got to go to the post office, so I'll have to leave things unfinished for now. Tune in next time when you'll learn how to make the doohickey thingy that rises from the middle of the staff thing. Or something like that.

Later!
proplady chris sword

Miroku Staff Tutorial - Part Three

Now comes the lardest part of the staff - making the center. This has to be made so that it fits onto the coupling while looking relatively seamless. The first thing to do is make the base. Take a 2mm sheet of craft foam and..well... do this with a marker...



--when you've worked out the general shape of the base, cut 2 identical pieces from the foam and glue them together down the sides like so:



--creating something like this:



Place it on top of the coupling, matching the edges as closely as possible. Mentally figure out how tall you want the piece to be. (Remember, there has to be room for the rest of the base, 5 beads and the two crescent-shaped pieces in the middle.)



Glue the foam piece in place over the coupling. The next step id the hardest bit. Cut a square of styrene plastic, place it against the base and mark off where the plastic meets with the 7" wire ring. Put notches in the plastic to allow the piece of plastic to fit snugly against the base on one side. like so:



The bottom edge of this new piece will be the "seam" on the coupling that's just below the base (so make sure it's at an even level all the way around.) Hotglue the plastic to the side of the base and trim away any excess plastic. This should give you a clear picture of what you should have at this point:



See where the horizontal "seam" is below the ring? You now have one side of the base covered with plastic. Do the exact same thing you just did to the other side. You'll have seams running up the sides of the base piece. It's hard to glue plastic along a seam with that extreme a curve so it's possible you will have a slight gap in the side. If so, cover it up with a thin strip of plastic. Trim all seams and overlaps with a craft knife so that they're relegated to the sides of the staffhead, and not visible from the front.



There. You've made the base piece. Next time, we'll show you how to make the ring blade. Stay tuned...